They normally eat the whole fish and in many cases carry the fish away from the pond to nearby woods and such and eat their catch there. If your Koi haven’t recently been shipped, are settled into your pond or tank, and are still flashing, scratching or scraping, it is likely a parasite issue. Without the use of a microscope, I would do a shotgun type of treatment, once poor water quality is ruled out. Some cases are more easily healed than others, depending on the original causative factors. If this proves not to be the culprit then we are left with the possibility of parasites or bacterial infection. Water quality is a given and the easiest to correct, so I won't go into details. The patchy type seems to have the opposite reaction, show up in warm water, and sometimes go away as the water cools down. If flashing occurs consistently and persists for more than a couple of days, it may be a sign of health issues, skin irritation, and underlying problems related to illness and/or water quality issues. This inspection will give us clues as to why the fish may have gotten this disease. (Especially at night and/or warm water above 80 degrees) Another big clue (and little known fact) is if any fish die with their mouth open after death. If only one or a small percentage of fish show symptoms, and these symptoms appeared over a period of weeks, (one fish at a time), and the water tests ok then the culprit is more likely to be pathogens like bacteria or parasites, especially the latter. The stress of the poor water quality then causes the parasites to start invading and/or the bacteria to do the same. When you see a fish at the surface, not sitting perfectly horizontal in the water, with its head pointing down, and its tail pointing up, and very lethargic and unresponsive, this is usually a sign of a serious bacterial infection. Many times this can be one of the easiest scenarios to diagnose, believe it or not. You should never exceed this amount however, as you do not want to exceed the fishes internal salinity of .9%. If you can, change out 5 to 10% of the water daily, or no more than 25% weekly. These colonies create lesions on the fish’s skim coat, gills, fins, skin, and organs as they eat away at the fish’s flesh. It is a normal judgment call we are always faced with in a commercial operation. If this is the case it makes diagnosis much more difficult. In this situation, I would highly recommend covering the tank completely with some sort of netting such as is offered in the "Predator Control" section of this site. If they do this in the pond you will see what looks like a white oil slick over the entire surface. The ones that appear as "lumps" are the type that seem most responsive to disappearing with warm water after showing up in colder temperatures. These cases that are truly "sudden death" can be caused by injury, poison, heart attacks, shock etc. It really matters a lot. Basically put, treating the fish with this little slime coat took them over the edge of what they can handle and allowed the sun's UV to penetrate and irritate the skin. Lastly, if you added new koi fishes in the pond, you might notice that your koi fishes will jump in their pond. As a result of the pH change, nutrient overload, and possible temperature fluctuation, koi may begin flashing due to stress and discomfort. The warmer temperatures make their immune systems kick into gear, and thus the kidney will generally come back to full operation. While there are cases of sudden deaths for no apparent reason, this is not common. It is interesting to note that koi fishes value their survival to a T, to even a point that they will try and evade from other koi fishes that are sick. It can sometimes be killed with a combination of salt treatments at .3% and water changes, but I prefer some of the other listed treatments below. It forms as colonies of bell-shaped individuals connected to stem like shafts, and under a microscope it resembles a bush with buds at the ends of each stem or branch. This is why it is quite common to see flashing during these times and for a period of time until the bugs settle back down. So this is just a generalization. Treating these types of fish is hit or miss, and in most cases it is not commonly cured. As a matter of fact, the fish in the above photo was misdiagnosed by a very famous breeder in Japan, and he was going to destroy the fish. ALL fish have parasites to some degree. In their weakened state, the parasites, and /or bacterial pathogens that live on the fish and in your water saw an opportunity to attack the fish! Some fish will swim slowly upward, only to stop and sink slowly toward the bottom. Prevention is key with this type of pathogen! Remember this, as it greatly affects what you are reading. When parasites are able to penetrate this layer due to stress factors, the bacteria just follow them in. If that slime coat gets damaged by things like poor water quality, physical injuries, chemical additives and snakes oils added to the water, these harmful pathogens quickly attack! This will many times cause some or all of the fish to flash given the right set of other variables like pH and temperature. In the case of the syringe, it must have a long enough needle to reach about halfway through the width of the fishes' body to where the bladder is situated. The only true way of discerning between the two is with the use of a microscope. First of all you have to understand that a healthy fish is watertight. NOTE: All of these create an unstable environment that can result in fish stress, illness, and disease. Salt at .3% can kill or knock back Ich, but I prefer to use a broad-spectrum parasite treatment. Columnaris is highly dangerous to fish- and often results in mortality due to suffocation caused by gill degradation, starvation due to the loss of the mouth structures, or mass tissue/ organ loss. Parasitic and other pathogen issues excluding viral, usually manifest slowly over time in a fish or two at a time. Proform-C or some other malachite/formalin mixture works best. Also any type of algae treatment can cause this. It’s the goal of HKF to educate you as hobbyists, as well as the retailers of Koi and the pond builders especially so you can protect and enjoy your precious pets and ponds for decades to come! This is due to the fact that these wounds will heal from the outer edge and work in towards the center. When in the adult stage these can be seen by the naked eye. If you have been treating your water and making sure that the chemical levels in your pond are in check, but you keep on having problems, then there might be a problem with your filter. Even though there are many strains of Aeromonas that infect Koi, the Salmonicida strain is the only one that makes the During the first treatment in the outside system, the fish flashed quite a bit that afternoon around 5PM. With most of these symptoms, the fish also seem oblivious to everything around them and will not show any signs of fright. More than that, the recovery of the koi fish will be faster as you are keeping a close eye on him or her. Understand that once you have fixed the water you have done all there is to do in this situation where poor water quality alone was the culprit. However, you must also kill the other strains of Aeromonas or Pseudomonas that make attack the area as well and in addition to the Salmonicida. Floating belly up or partially rolled over, and unable to swim upright or swim to below the surface. Took me a week to catch the little buggers and I am an experienced trapper! These symptoms will be listed and discussed elsewhere in this section.
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