Glad you got your problem resolved. After 1/2 hour, It turns out the recall back in November- the software update that I asked the dealership about many times- is the likely culprit. I am home with (hopefully) good news! Now to verify the system the Lin bus at the alternator is scoped with the high electrical demand. I left it overnight and got a call the next day that everything was fine. The battery on your Honda Civic has to be fully charged, to be able to successfully accomplish this multimeter test. replaced and relays replaced(A/C). Running, the car is showing 13.2 No lights anywhere when the car is off inside or out... a few steps down a few more to go! No need for expensive diagnostic testing equipment. I would still file a complaint with Honda about that certain tech doing that, make sure you have the date, names, etc just to CYA. There are several different specs but most of the time these voltage drops in these vehicles are less than 250 mv with the alternator charging. If the head lights are turned on the voltmeter will then go up to around 14.3 vdc. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. 0000002020 00000 n a bit. Leaving the voltmeter. keep the engine running for about 10 minutes while you perform this test. 0000020868 00000 n OK, let's interpret your multimeter test results in the next page. not dashboard lights or anything. Why? A steady 13.5 to 14.5 Volts DC. On the eld system though those alternators would show some charging voltage at idle. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. Charging system (ECU) to kick in a little higher voltage. Just trying to pass along some info that might save an incorrect diagnosis. Disclaimer. Honda civic 2012 LX 1.8L won't charge under certain load conditions. With the multimeter test leads, probe the battery terminals. I've had two within the past couple months sent by AAA for charging problems. If the voltage displayed is the same or less than battery voltage, replace the alternator. That is why I wanted you to have it tested with the headlights on full, etc. Then turn on the windshield wipers on high, and again take a look at your multimeter. They still use a belt driven three phased alternator and an internal electronically controlled voltage regulator that has three main functions. This system requires a different approach for testing. 0000006065 00000 n Then we met.”Rodney Dangerfield, Home | The charging lug will have a large gauge wire, covered by a rubber boot, bolted to it that supplies power to the rest of the vehicle when the engine is running. As an Amazon Associate, I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases from the Amazon product links from this website. My honda civic is has no power for last 2-3 days. the alternator even though it tested fine but the problem persisted. Don't drive the car in "Econ" mode, and leave the headlights on all the time while you drive. 0000002173 00000 n Other mandatory charging system tests should include voltage drop testing the battery cables. 13.2 v running is pretty low for a battery that registers 11.2v when the engine is off. Set the controls on your digital volt/ohm meter to the “Volt D/C” position. Then the battery current sensor is scoped for a proper output signal. Turning on the headlights increases the current draw and caused the Honda CR-V Owners Club forum, the best hang-out to discuss CVT, Hybrids, trim levels and all things CR-V, 2013 EX FWD 5AT - Mountain Air Metallic (HER's)-Now on Michelin Defender H+T's, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJLP6/, http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/63138-2015-honda-cr-v-vibration-idle-post504906.html#post504906, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. This voltage gives the illusion that the alternator is not functioning properly. Our high output alternators are a direct bolt-in replacement for your original factory alternator. A scope of the single control wire for the alternator shows a good control signal. Anyone know where to start? Leaving the voltmeter across the battery terminals and the car is started the voltmeter reads around 14.3 vdc for about 10 seconds. Alternator Output Supply … I know on some later models, the computer would not charge the battery under light electrical load to save fuel, so perhaps that update will help. The voltage jumps up and the I fixed the issue by changing out The entire test is explained in a step-by-step manner and can be done in under 10 minutes. Locate the battery and pull back the protective rubber terminal covers. Tools | No parasitic draw found. of driving, it stops blo... CarGurus has 67,048 nationwide Civic listings starting at $1,299. The At an idle with an adequately charged battery and no load the alternator shows no charging voltage increase. I also appreciate the systems such as the Ford products that report commanded and actual regulator control. Chrysler | Alright, I'm done talking -let's get testing: Set your multimeter (whether it's digital or analog) on Volts DC mode and crank up and start your Honda Civic. 2.) 0000013354 00000 n My daughters 2013 seems to be developing the same issue. Honda/Acura charging systems appear to be similar to other manufacturers. Like I've said A LOT of times, if you just wait long enough, everything seems to come back. needs to recharge it. I really doubt that the computer may show damage in the future due to that neg bat cable being disconnected. off car. Be careful, the engine will be running. On these newer systems where the sensor is on the negative terminal that. With the lights still on and a charging voltage correct at the battery the battery current sensor is scoped. Battery is back to full charge and the alternator is now putting out 14.5 volts steady at idle. The tech also confirmed that the last guy who ran my car for 45 minutes without the negative cable very likely did some computer damage that may not show up for years. 0000002680 00000 n If that 11.2 is on the new battery, Houston, we have a problem. Something about it causes the voltage reg to call for full charge capability out of the alternator in an unregulated way which to my understanding isn't good for the alternator. It is completely normal that there would be no charging output at idle. the alternator when it thinks the battery has enough charge (voltage is high enough). Providing advanced level diagnostic training for independent repair technicians. 0000006587 00000 n Honda did something VERY similar years ago and techs kept mis-diagnosing it as a bad charging system, They called it a "HF" series of Honda, that meet High Fuel Economy because at idle and low RPM it didn't charge or charged very low. Sounds dumb but it's true. As you're keeping an eye on your multimeter's display screen, this is what you'll see: Honda Civic High Output Alternators Below are the available amperages we have for the Honda Civic 1984 to 2016. This same process can be accomplished with a scan tool, from the driver's seat. So take all necessary safety precautions. How To Test The Starter Motor (Honda 1.5L, 1.6L), How To Test The Alternator (Honda 1.5L, 1.6L), “My wife and I were happy for 20 years. with the headlights on keeping it charged. I agree actual and desired charge volts are golden pids. The negative should be tested from battery negative to the alternator case. The. Ford | Seems worse in summer months, maybe less lights on. I called Honda and the dealership said they'd test it but covering the alternator would be up to Honda and not the dealership itself. 0000005889 00000 n Either your multimeter will register a nice and steady 13.5 to 14.5 voltage (in Volts DC) no matter what you turned on inside the Civic. Is this problem a software issue, control module issue, etc. 0000008915 00000 n Had the reg/alternator and battery check OK. OK, let's interpret your multimeter test results in the next page. Testing the charging system of the Honda presents some difficulties, but this project is still within the abilities of a well-equipped weekend mechanic. numerous parts and tightening some hoses. years old. 0000003176 00000 n there were several time over a couple of months that I had to boost the car. If the alternator is functioning properly, the voltage displayed on the meter will be around 13.5 volts. 0000001783 00000 n If there was some damage, it should show up pretty soon. It was for exactly this problem, and after the update, I am running in the 13s (was running in the 11s this morning.) to replace the battery even though it test fine wherever they had it as I had been running Honda needs to modify their 0000002425 00000 n Had the. The eld was used for high electrical load compensation. I replaced battery and around 12.3 vdc using a voltmeter... Dead battery. This is absolutely true. This is normal functionality for this car. The voltage will decrease from 12.5 Volts DC to 10-9 Volts DC the more stuff you turn on and the longer your Honda Civic stays running. I I believe I've read where you're not supposed to disconnect the battery to run off the alternator. The OK, to get this show on the road, the first thing you'll do is to test the battery's voltage with the engine running. The regulator controls the pulse-width of the field rotor voltage. How much of that testing can be done with a scan tool, with both bidirectional control & pid data? Your purchase helps support my work in bringing you real diagnostic testing information to help you solve the problem! charging system to recognize that it needs to do its job. 1.) Almost instantly the battery voltage increased to a normal voltage signal. The LED was 0000003416 00000 n 1. Look in the back of your Owner's Manual, there is contact info there with phone numbers and how to get in touch with Honda. Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). vehicle starts out blowing cold air but after 30-40 minutes 2012 Honda Civic Charging System Testing The alternator control on the 2012 Civic consists of single wire Lin bus controlled alternator, a battery load sensor, the instrument cluster and the PCM. The system limits the output of The positive side should be tested from the battery positive to the alternator battery cable connection.
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